Error "E" Codes
Scroll Down to see E-1 through E-4 Codes for Control Boards
Vacuum Loss: Pellet
stoves require a clean "un-resisted" flow of combustion air to perform
safely and efficiently. The E-1 code is for vacuum loss; it happens when the flow of exhaust is not sufficient to hold the “flue blockage” switch closed.
Common causes for E-1 codes (check these; more information is below this):
1. Exhaust blower not coming on when stove is turned on. If not, check the blower itself and its wires.
2. Blocked flue pipe: check the flue pipe for obstruction and clean.
3. Cracked vacuum hose connection at the exhaust housing: this hose can crack if the stove has been run hot and/or has not been cleaned as much as it should be.
4. Loose wiring connection: on the switch and the other ends where they connect at the bottom of the control board.
5. Issue after component replacement: If any associated component such as the vacuum switch has been replaced, ensure that the replacement component has been wired correctly in the “normally open” position, and that the vacuum hose is connected to the “negative” port (the lower, off-white colored connector).
If everything mentioned above is as it should be the, Vacuum Switch itself is bad and should be replaced.
MORE Information Concerning E-1 Codes:
The exhaust setup should be done in such a way as to keep the
horizontal length to a minimum, too long a horizontal run will slow the air flow
down to a point where vacuum loss can occur. This is caused by a lack of natural
convective rise in the horizontal section, which means that the exhaust blower
has to physically move this exhaust without the help of this natural rise. Two
to three ft. of horizontal will generally work. As for the vertical portion of
the installation: it is
mandatory that the vertical must
be at least 3'
but it can be run higher. In this case, if the installation will require more
than 15 ft. of total pipe for the exhaust run, the pipe diameter should be
increased to a 4" diameter.
See Installation Page
The unit is designed to handle
a standard through the wall pipe kit which contains two 90 degree elbows. One elbow is a "clean out tee," which is placed at the bottom of the vertical stack
to allow ease in cleaning of the flue pipe itself, and the other is generally
placed at the top of the vertical (to turn the flow of exhaust away from the
structure if the flue is not being run above the roofline), before attaching the
horizontal cap. Additional 90 degree elbows to this system can add resistance,
or back pressure, to the flow of exhaust which could compromise the free flow of
air needed for proper function. For "catty corner" installations, an additional
elbow is used. This elbow would be a
and would provide much less resistance; therefore, addition of this piece
would generally not compromise airflow.
An Outside Intake Air Source is Mandatory with all freestanding England's
Stove Works' pellet units! As stated above, the
free flow of air through these units is extremely important to ensure proper function. Virtually any structure into which a pellet stove would be installed
will not have enough draftiness built into it to allow for the amount of air to leak back into the structure at the rate a pellet stove will remove it. The size of the structure is not a factor in this;
therefore, a buildup of "negative pressure" will occur as air is removed from
the structure. This buildup would then restrict the free flow of combustion air
through the unit and will cause a loss of vacuum. Improper installation of the
outside air intake can also cause vacuum loss; the unit is designed to be
connected to a 2" intake pipe, which should be installed in as short and direct a
manner as possible. This pipe would have to be less than 6 ft. in length and may
not contain more than two 90 degree elbows. If these parameters cannot be met,
the diameter of the intake must be increased to a 3" pipe for the entire length
of the intake run.
Basement installations would have to be done in this manner. (
See Basement Installation Page)
The intake pipe should be equipped with a screen to keep any animals, bees or
foreign material from getting into the intake, but the screen used should not be restrictive in its
makeup, and should be installed above the snow drift line in areas where this could be a problem.
Vacuum loss can occur at higher
elevations due to the air being thinner. Installations above 4,000 ft. above sea
level should be done using a 4" pellet vent pipe
rather than 3", and intake should also be done in 3" in most cases.
Failure to properly clean and
maintain the unit can cause loss of vacuum to occur. Proper airflow will not be
attained if the unit is not cleaned out regularly. Areas that must stay clear
The firepot itself,
especially the area
the wear plate, must not be
allowed to become blocked. This area should be cleaned out at a minimum every
few days, or daily if the unit is being run on higher heat ranges.
impingement plate (or baffle plate) should be removed weekly and all areas
behind it should be thoroughly cleaned.
The heat exchangers, which can be
accessed when baffle plate is removed, should also be thoroughly cleaned. (See
The flue itself (the pellet vent pipe) should be cleaned monthly or after
every ton of pellets (whichever comes first).
The entire stove and flue
system should be fully cleaned and serviced annually.
Failures due to neglect in cleaning
or maintenance will not be covered under warranty!
It is recommended that an ash removal system be utilized to perform cleaning on
these units; contact your hearth retailer or England's Stove Works to obtain such
Using alternative fuels such as dried corn or cherry pits, which tend
to feed faster, have different burning characteristics and BTU outputs.
These fuels tend to burn hotter, and in the case of corn, the kernels
burn slower than pellets do, so they can build up in the firepot and
cause the fire to become hotter than it is supposed to. NOTE: Our pellet stoves are designed for wood pellets only.
Other possible causes for E-1 would
include: non-functional exhaust blower; a loose wire from the flue
blockage vacuum switch to the control board (these wires connect to the
control board near the bottom of the board); a loose hose connection
from the flue blockage vacuum switch to the exhaust chamber; or a blocked
connection where the hose connects to the exhaust chamber. Also, an
improperly positioned baffle plate, which would allow exhaust to bypass
the top of the heat exchanger ... i.e., if the baffle plate is not
positioned flat against the back wall of the firebox at the bottom,
allowing the fire to get behind it (this would cause higher exhaust
temperatures that could damage the vacuum hose or cause vacuum loss due
to lack of air density (the hotter air gets, the less dense it becomes,
making it much harder to sustain vacuum pressure)).
Failure to start: Auto-ignition equipped stove models (units produced in 2004 and newer) monitor
themselves during the "SU" sequence (Startup) when the stove is being
put into use. If the unit does not reach its minimum operating temperature
within the 20 minute startup period, it will shut down and display the "E-2" code. Should this occur, and
the fire does not physically light,
the fuel that fed through during the startup attempt should be removed from the
burn pot, the burn pot area should be cleaned (if it was not cleaned prior to
attempted start) and another start should be attempted. If the unit subsequently
does not start on the second attempt, the following should be checked:
Common causes for E-2 codes (check these; more information is below this):
1. Igniter plugged with ash: To clear, vacuum out the burn pot, then insert a toothpick (or a straightened-out paperclip or similar item) into the igniter hole and “ream out” the airspace between the tip of the igniter rod and the backside of the hole. This will allow the heated air to pass through into the firepot, to more readily start the fire on time.
2. Igniter out of position: The igniter must have a standoff, which allows air to pass the tip to light the pellets. If the igniter rod is positioned too close to the hole into the pot, the air cannot get past the tip to light the pellets. Adjusting the igniter back to allow for a larger air gap should correct the problem.
3. If the unit fires but does not continue to run with ample heat to be able to make its proof of fire temp.: The likely issue is a disconnected heat sensor, or the “air on temp” setting being too high. To check the air on temp, push that button and look in the blower speed readout for the setting. It must be set on 1; if set higher, reset to 1 and re-attempt to start the unit. If the stove still doesn’t make it out of startup (particularly if the room fan does not come on), check the heat sensor for possible bad connection. If connected correctly, test the sensor in diagnostic; if the sensor reads a "9" in the heat range and it is connected properly, it’s bad and should be replaced.
MORE Information Concerning E-2 Codes:
The cartridge heater itself, when energized, will start to glow within two to three minutes of turning the unit on. If the cartridge
heater does not glow, the cartridge heater itself and its connections to
the control board would need to be checked.
The burn area and the chamber
beneath the wear plate should be completely clean. Ash that is left in the burn
area from previous fires can retard airflow that is essential for a clean start.
Pay particular attention to the igniter opening to the
right of the auger. Ignition is caused by the free flow of combustion
air through the chamber which houses the cartridge heater; this air is then
superheated as it passes through this chamber out into the burn pot. If this
flow of air is restricted, the amount of heated air needed to light the pellets
will not be present and the pellets will either not light at all or will take
too long to ignite, and the unit will not have sufficient time to reach its
operating temperature. To ensure that the airway is clear, it may be necessary to
occasionally insert a toothpick or similar implement into the igniter hole and
break up the ash that would be causing the obstruction.
only be performed when stove is completely cold! After breaking up the obstruction, use an ash vacuum or shop vac to
remove the loosened ash from the igniter hole and,
after ensuring the unit is otherwise cleaned and ready for service, attempt another
When starting the unit, there is
no need to place any fuel into the burn pot before lighting; the unit will allow
itself enough fuel to sufficiently start. If the unit does not feed any fuel
into the burn pot, there will be no fire and an E-2 code should appear. Should this be the
case, inspect the auger system itself to ensure that the augers are working
correctly; if they are, also ensure that the fuel is not getting hung up in the
Wet fuel can severely retard
the ignition process. Pellet fuel should be stored in a dry, climate controlled area, as
the fuel can soak up excessive moisture; therefore, pellet bags should not be
opened until fuel is needed.
The position of the cartridge
heater in its chamber can effect lighting as well. If the cartridge heater is
not properly centered on the hole in the burn pot, or if its depth back into
that hole is not correct, it can have the effect of blocking the opening with its
own tip, restricting airflow. Also, if it is not centered, airflow would not
effectively surround it before reaching the fuel, causing inconsistent starting.
Other things that can cause a failure
to start include:
functional exhaust blower: This would give an E-2,
followed by an E-1 as stated
bottom auger motor not running: No fuel flow would result in a fail to
A non functional or
disconnected heat sensor: If the unit does not read sufficient heat within the
startup sequence, it will assume that the unit did not start and give an E-2
code. This can happen with a bad heat sensor, even if the unit starts normally
and does get hot, and a mis-programmed "air on temp" setting; must be on 1.
Over temperature limit:
This unit has the ability to moderate itself should the unit attain too
high a temperature. In some cases the unit will display an E-3 and go
into a cool down sequence, in other cases the top auger will be
interrupted until the unit has cooled enough that it deems itself safe
to continue running.
Common causes for E-3 codes (check these; more information is below this):
1. Dirty stove: As ash builds in the unit, it slows down the flow of air through it; this allows more heat to build in the unit before the exhaust leaves the stove.
2. Plugged or inoperable room fan: The room fan (or convection blower) has a dual purpose. One is to blow heat out into the room, the other is to help keep the stove cool internally, by blowing room temperature air through the unit, which scrubs heat out of the stove and pushes it out the front of the unit. Over time, these fans tend to attract “dust bunnies” and especially pet hair. This debris clogs the inlet screens on the large units and builds up on the blades of the smaller ones; in both cases it reduces the airflow through the stove, which allows the internal temperatures to rise slowly until the unit exceeds the high limit and errors out. A bad room fan will rapidly allow the unit to reach overtemp and shut down, as well.
3. Wrong mode: The 25-PDVC / 55-SHP10 / 55-SHP10L / 55-TRP10 is run in the “D” mode; if it is set in “C” mode it can feed too much fuel in the high ranges and exceed temp. settings. Also, in lower or mid ranges, if the room fan is kept even with the heat range, the same can happen in "C" mode, as the feed rates are a bit faster in that mode.
4. Running the blower speed below the heat range: If the blower does not move enough air for the heat that the fire is making, the unit will error out as well.
5. Burning the wrong fuel in the stove: Pellet stoves are not “multifuel” stoves; they are designed to only burn wood pellets. Burning corn, grains, cherry pits, switch grass, or other fuels can result in higher temperatures and can damage the stove, as well as cause error codes.
MORE Information Concerning E-2 Codes:
Smaller pellets can feed
through the system faster than normal-sized ones (about 1" long on average is
a normal size for pellets). This happens because the smaller the pellets are, the
more they will settle into the top auger at a time, which causes the unit to
feed more fuel than normal in each feed setting.
Running heat range higher than
blower speed: The room air blower not only
blows the heat into the room, but as it is doing so it also provides a cooling
function to the unit internally. As room air is blown through the unit, it
removes heat from it, thereby cooling the unit down. If not enough room air is
moved through the unit, the heat then builds up inside the unit until over temp
limit is reached.
Note: this can cause
damage to the
unit if allowed to happen frequently.
This is a "time and temperature" fault code:
This code is only found in certain models. Essentially, it is caused when the unit drops a certain amount of temperature in a short amount of time, and its purpose is to take away the possibility of feeding fuel into a smoldering condition after a gap in feeding.
Common causes for E-4 codes:
1. Pellets bridging in the hopper: In some cases, pellets can form a self-supporting dome or “bridge” over the feed auger in the bottom of the hopper. When this happens, the feed auger empties out beneath the bridge and a gap in feeding occurs. This bridge will normally collapse under its own weight (along with natural vibrations from the unit) and feeding will resume. If the gap in feeding is long enough, the resulting loss of fuel and the dying fire can cause an E-4 code. Longer pellets are usually more susceptible to this issue, and excessive pellet dust can also cause this situation.
2. Stove shutting down from lack of fuel in a cool environment: Stoves such as the utility furnace are often used in shop or basement applications. In these applications, the ambient temperatures may be lower than in a ground-floor house type of application, so in a shutdown from running out of fuel, the E-4 can occur, as the temperature drop is more rapid. This does not denote a “failure” in the unit, but is a common occurrence in cold room shutdowns.
3. Gaps in feeding due to “hot fueling” or “hot cleaning”: For pellet units which have hopper lid switches and active door switches - when either is opened, they will stop feeding, and if the gap in feeding is too great then the E-4 "time and temp." error can occur.
have any further questions or concerns, please contact Customer Service at:
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